Post by wiizardii01 on Nov 22, 2014 14:52:13 GMT -6
BTW, branjita, do you know how I can use sand paper in any way when it comes to painting? My plans for the SSJ god custom I am making of Goku is getting ready, but I forgot that I got a big ass package full of sand papers that I still to this day haven't used, and I wonder if I fullfil that by using it somehow when it comes to painting.... Or is sand paper not needed in any way when it comes to acrylic painting customization?
It's not very necessary or useful. It's difficult to use sand paper on small figures. A sanding block for fingernails is more useful. As for whether you need it for painting, no, you shouldn't need it for painting anything unless you want to make that part thinner.
i initially try to paint the logo and red ribbon text on a small hat. The logo isn't quite good and the text is horrible.
So i decided to get a laser print transparent decal, photo below shows the first time i was testing the text decal with a badly painted logo.
Here i repaint the whole thing yellow again and applied the decal, i had to paint a little white beneath the decal because its transparent. After that i sprayed another layer of clear acrylic paint to sealed the ink. The lacquer seems to dissolve the decal too. I might buy the white decal and test a goku logo.
very interesting...it looks incredible. I'm surprised that decals work so well. I'd really like to see this with your Android 13 custom and I'd also like to see the Goku you mentioned if you add a logo to it.
Would you guys know of a paint color that looks like the paint on turles armor in this pic? the type of paint I am going to be using is delta ceramcoat acrylic paint but I just can't find the right paint color...
I was trying to find the plastic epoxy in the double tubes that you recommend in the sticky, but I cant seem to find it. All I see are the Loctite syringe ones and the black plastic welder by Devcon. I see some high-end ones in the hobby-shop web stores specifically made for toys, but they're little expensive, and I know that these other ones will work just as good for a lot less coin. By any chance, do you know where i could fine some tubes at a decent price?
I wrote this as a reply to someone on Facebook, and since I went through so much effort, I figured I should copy and paste it here (in case I never mentioned similar information here).
How to remove acrylic paint mistakes from a custom figure and clean up the edges
Acrylic paint is water-based, not oil-based, so using thinner, mineral spirits, turpentine, or nail polish remover is not necessary. Plastic is oil-based, and therefore, those solvents will all harm plastic. Since acrylic paint is water-based, it can be thinned with water when painting with it. You can't use water to thin enamel or oil paint. To quote Wikikipedia: "When dry, acrylic paint is generally non-removable from a solid surface if it adheres to the surface. Water or mild solvents do not re-solubilize it, although isopropyl alcohol can lift some fresh paint films off. Toluene and acetone can remove paint films, but they do not lift paint stains very well and are not selective. The use of a solvent to remove paint may result in removal of all of the paint layers (acrylic gesso, et cetera). Oils and warm, soapy water can remove acrylic paint from skin."
With that said, scratching with a toothpick has been my preferred method over the years. A safety pin or bent paperclip can be used in smaller areas, but will leave scratch marks that are difficult to repair. Soap and hot water will remove maybe 60% of the acrylic paint on a figure, but you won't want to use that to clean up paint mistakes like those on the Gohan figure or you'll remove paint you don't want to. (You'd only want to do that if you received a figure, it was painted terribly by a 12 year old, and you want to repaint it. And even then, it is generally better to just sand the previous customizer's terrible paint job smooth and paint over it.) Generally a toothpick will do the job if the sloppy paint is on top of a factory painted surface (in other words... the acrylic paint is NOT on top of other acrylic paint) . If the paint stained the plastic (like that dark blue will), I generally use my manicure tool (an electric, low-powered dremel--a regular dremel can be used but will be harder to control and more abrasive) to sand off the stain and then I'll polish it out by hand with a nail buffing block (if there is room to fit it in) and then I'll paint a layer of Testors Model Masters Flat Clear Acryl on top to make the smooth texture come back.
Post by friezasama on Aug 31, 2018 12:22:18 GMT -6
Hi, could you say me please, is there any specific color reference for skin tone ? I would like to repaint my C18 since it seems finally it's an offical one, but poorly painted, but I never did that before, I don't know if it exist a pre-well made color type, and I don't know either what kind of pencil I should use to make no ugly drop :/
I don't want ruin even further the scultpure ;(
Last Edit: Aug 31, 2018 12:22:32 GMT -6 by friezasama