Post by wiizardii01 on Nov 22, 2014 14:52:13 GMT -6
BTW, branjita, do you know how I can use sand paper in any way when it comes to painting? My plans for the SSJ god custom I am making of Goku is getting ready, but I forgot that I got a big ass package full of sand papers that I still to this day haven't used, and I wonder if I fullfil that by using it somehow when it comes to painting.... Or is sand paper not needed in any way when it comes to acrylic painting customization?
It's not very necessary or useful. It's difficult to use sand paper on small figures. A sanding block for fingernails is more useful. As for whether you need it for painting, no, you shouldn't need it for painting anything unless you want to make that part thinner.
Here i repaint the whole thing yellow again and applied the decal, i had to paint a little white beneath the decal because its transparent. After that i sprayed another layer of clear acrylic paint to sealed the ink. The lacquer seems to dissolve the decal too. I might buy the white decal and test a goku logo.
very interesting...it looks incredible. I'm surprised that decals work so well. I'd really like to see this with your Android 13 custom and I'd also like to see the Goku you mentioned if you add a logo to it.
Would you guys know of a paint color that looks like the paint on turles armor in this pic? the type of paint I am going to be using is delta ceramcoat acrylic paint but I just can't find the right paint color...
I was trying to find the plastic epoxy in the double tubes that you recommend in the sticky, but I cant seem to find it. All I see are the Loctite syringe ones and the black plastic welder by Devcon. I see some high-end ones in the hobby-shop web stores specifically made for toys, but they're little expensive, and I know that these other ones will work just as good for a lot less coin. By any chance, do you know where i could fine some tubes at a decent price?
I wrote this as a reply to someone on Facebook, and since I went through so much effort, I figured I should copy and paste it here (in case I never mentioned similar information here).
How to remove acrylic paint mistakes from a custom figure and clean up the edges
Acrylic paint is water-based, not oil-based, so using thinner, mineral spirits, turpentine, or nail polish remover is not necessary. Plastic is oil-based, and therefore, those solvents will all harm plastic. Since acrylic paint is water-based, it can be thinned with water when painting with it. You can't use water to thin enamel or oil paint. To quote Wikikipedia: "When dry, acrylic paint is generally non-removable from a solid surface if it adheres to the surface. Water or mild solvents do not re-solubilize it, although isopropyl alcohol can lift some fresh paint films off. Toluene and acetone can remove paint films, but they do not lift paint stains very well and are not selective. The use of a solvent to remove paint may result in removal of all of the paint layers (acrylic gesso, et cetera). Oils and warm, soapy water can remove acrylic paint from skin."
With that said, scratching with a toothpick has been my preferred method over the years. A safety pin or bent paperclip can be used in smaller areas, but will leave scratch marks that are difficult to repair. Soap and hot water will remove maybe 60% of the acrylic paint on a figure, but you won't want to use that to clean up paint mistakes like those on the Gohan figure or you'll remove paint you don't want to. (You'd only want to do that if you received a figure, it was painted terribly by a 12 year old, and you want to repaint it. And even then, it is generally better to just sand the previous customizer's terrible paint job smooth and paint over it.) Generally a toothpick will do the job if the sloppy paint is on top of a factory painted surface (in other words... the acrylic paint is NOT on top of other acrylic paint) . If the paint stained the plastic (like that dark blue will), I generally use my manicure tool (an electric, low-powered dremel--a regular dremel can be used but will be harder to control and more abrasive) to sand off the stain and then I'll polish it out by hand with a nail buffing block (if there is room to fit it in) and then I'll paint a layer of Testors Model Masters Flat Clear Acryl on top to make the smooth texture come back.
Post by friezasama on Aug 31, 2018 12:22:18 GMT -6
Hi, could you say me please, is there any specific color reference for skin tone ? I would like to repaint my C18 since it seems finally it's an offical one, but poorly painted, but I never did that before, I don't know if it exist a pre-well made color type, and I don't know either what kind of pencil I should use to make no ugly drop :/
I don't want ruin even further the scultpure ;(
Last Edit: Aug 31, 2018 12:22:32 GMT -6 by friezasama
Not sure if this is really the right thread, but I might as well ask, right? I already know this is probably the place to go if I want to start customizing in the first place, but where can I go to DISCUSS possible future customs, like just ideas and concepts and ideas for what parts to use, etc.? I have plenty of ideas floating around in my head, but I'm not sure if I actually want to do them or not, and I still need to even learn how to in the first place anyway. Also, do people on this forum ever take commissions for customs or can recommend anyone who does? Thanks <3
miksolo I'm not sure if anybody on here still does commissions or not, but the best place to discuss concepts would definitely be in your own new thread! Just make a new thread titled "Misolo's works in progress" or something like that and you can talk about your ideas and show progress on what you're working on in that. For sharing pics, I definitely recommend going through this ordeal to set up Cloudinary! dragonballfigures.com/thread/3846/cloudinary-free-image-hosting-members It makes sharing images on here sooooo convenient.
They actually came out with an updated version of Cloudinary I need to upgrade my own account to. I'm not sure how different the instructions will/would be to reflect that update though. Whenever I do that, I'll definitely post a reply to that thread and mention what I had to do.
Testors has discontinued Model Masters paint as of (I think) April 2020. Why it's taken a year for anybody to really notice... I don't know. But Hobby Lobby currently has it on sale for $1 a bottle. It's time to go take advantage and stock up before it's impossible to find. It's on the model car aisle.
Thanks to the massive clearance, I am finally going to try out a bunch of the colors they make. Most of their colors are tailored to automotive stuff, like leather, muscle car engine colors, transparent red blue and green, and a bunch of colors for military model kits. I have only depended on the Model Masters Flat Clear Acryl over the years... opting to use much cheaper Delta Ceramcoat acrylic paints for colors. The flat clear acryl protects my paint from getting scratched or chipped, and provides a fairly eggshell/flat finish... albeit a little milky. However, it's the only brush-on clear I've ever used and I've been using it for like 20 years. I'm looking forward to trying the MM colors and seeing why exactly a little bottle of acrylic paint would cost 4 to 10 times as much as the same quantity of Delta Ceramcoat. I'm hoping that I don't have to use any clear on top at all...
I bought at least 20 bottles of various colors and some clears and mailed timone317 a few duplicates since I know he loves the MM paint colors.
If you're a first time buyer (like me), make sure you read the label and just buy the acrylic paints (there's blue on the label). The enamel paints (I think they had red on the label) require paint thinner to clean your brushes and enamel paint is only appropriate (usually) for use on metal or wood if I remember right. So unless you plan on painting Hot Wheels or a little tiny picture frame, stay away from the enamel paint. Enamel has a bad habit of never fully drying on plastic and remaining sticky forever.